You could even solder the 5v line to the output of the regulator.

This piece protrudes into the Nomad farther than anything else, but due to its shape it can’t be fully trimmed down without leaving a gaping hole in the shell (which is obviously a problem aesthetically). Required fields are marked *. There are many 3.5″ TFT screens on the market that can use this signal. No luck at all. Next remove the smaller screws from the motherboard and the speaker wire, then lift it up. This method can work if like me and the poster above, you have issues with the red light on the charger staying lit.

No smoke or flames so far, but the most important part is yet to come: temperature testing! Some screens are better than others as well, so it is best to always test the compatibility of the screen beforehand. The magenta circled screws are for attaching the old screen to the motherboard and will not be reused when the new screen is installed. The replacement screen is a generic model often sold for car DVD players and reversing cameras. With all the soldering complete, plug the ribbon cable back in, toss in a game and cross your fingers. Third time lucky. just remove the screws and disconnect the cartridge ribbon connector carefully.

There are four solder terminal/holes marked 3V3, GND, TX and RX. Note: The buck and charging circuits were purchased as a single combination device.

It does help to diffuse the red charging LED a bit (which is very bright), but the green LED is surprisingly dim – not the lens’s fault, but still disappointing. All that’s required is to wire a new screen to the video signal, and power. I would love to see a video posted on the build out of this. Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License, External Components Part 1: The OEM Power Supply, External Components Part 2: Selecting a New Power Supply, http://wr-labs.com/2018/04/14/sega-nomad-internal-battery-mod-v2-0-now-with-3000mah-cells/, Mini Oregon Trail Handheld Mod (The OregonBoy) – DIY Guide, Sega Nomad LCD Upgrade (Part 2): LCD Brightness/Menu Control, Sega Nomad LCD Upgrade (Part 1): Power-Efficient LCD Replacement, Sega Nomad Internal Battery Mod v2.0 (now with 3000mAh cells), A selectable (regulated) voltage output (with a 9V option), An assortment of barrels, including one sized at 4.0mm x 1.7mm (close enough), 1x . One thing to note, with one of the screw posts for the cartridge door assembly removed (gold), the door assembly will be loose when it’s reinstalled. This extra wire just tucks into the side when the shell closes. Might work, Sorry I just cannot answer that any better for now. p.s.

I found a pack of pre-wired connectors with 4” wires on eBay, so I took two pairs and trimmed the wires down. The new LEDs can be wired in the same configuration, where each anode connects to the same wire. Not including tools & misc parts I already owned.

http://www.dx.com/p/2-ch-video-input-3-5-tft-lcd-display-monitor-module-w-cable-black-silvery-grey-ntsc-pal-201631#.VW1uM89VhBd Fitting these batteries is a game of millimeters, every tiny bit counts. This is only 95% full capacity (it should charge to 8.4V).

Adapters rated 10V are very difficult to find, so the most common recommendation for 3rd party replacements is a 9V supply, which is close enough to not overstress the Nomad’s regulator. These terminals connect to the Nomad’s circuit board by passing directly through it, and are soldered on the top side (points A thru D), except for one of the positive terminal’s legs, which is also soldered on the bottom side (point E).

This is amazing!

The lengths of these wires (and those for the battery connection in the next step) were estimated based on how I planned to route them. After testing the screen externally it was time to strip the unit down and remove the old Nomad screen. SPDT Slide Switch (rated 30VDC, 5A) [ from local hobby shop ], one screw post for the Nomad’s bottom circuit board (, one screw post for the cartridge door assembly (, one screw post for the case’s security screw (, a chunk of the support post below the d-pad (, one support post below the A/B/C buttons (. Connecting the battery backwards could easily have fried something.

These units are close to 25 years old, it could just be that working on it cracked a solder joint somewhere, or maybe a different component or IC failed. You’d think with a chip missing something would break/no longer work wouldn’t you . Heya, since I’ve installed the batteries on this, I’ve been getting a black screen only. Similar to the previous version of this mod, I need to test the battery life and temperature. Hi. For these cuts, I used the same method as the D-pad post – I sat a piece of cardboard on top of the “battery terminal block” and used it as a guide to trim it to the same height. Very cool….. I’m giving this a try and hopefully it will work. As much as I’d like to claim skill for this success, frankly…I think I got lucky. Required fields are marked *. a battery pack, use a DC jack with three terminals: positive, negative, and switching. Required fields are marked *. Just curious, why did you tap off the batteries directly for the nomad power instead of using the VOUT on the charger? To remove it, I gently pinched the terminal’s legs together with pliers while I desoldered one leg at a time, and they easily popped right out of their slots. Wow, super quick response. I left just enough slack in the DC power wires (the blue line) for the two halves of the Nomad to be opened along the bottom seam and lay flat. I tucked the connectors along the edge of the shell near the kill switch and replaced the circuit board (there really is just so much wasted space in this system…).

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